Surfing information
Here you'll discover everything you need to know as a surfer. You'll find explanations about rip currents, weather, and conditions, as well as everything you need to stay safe and enjoy the ocean to the fullest with confidence.
Rip currents
understand them well to anticipate them
Rip currents are powerful and often overlooked ocean currents that can quickly sweep a swimmer or surfer out to sea. Found on beaches with sandbars, particularly along the Atlantic coast, they are one of the leading causes of sea rescues.
What exactly is a rip current?
A rip current is a strong current of water that carries you out to sea without you being able to control it. It is often found on sandy beaches, particularly on the Landes coast. The water arrives on the beach driven by the movement of waves breaking on sandbanks. Between these sandbanks, the water has dug holes, like small natural pools, and this is what is called a rip current. The water then returns to the open sea through these holes.
How should you react if you are caught in a rip current?
1- Don't panic
This current doesn't pull you down, it pulls you out to sea. Stay calm and stay on the surface. If you have a surfboard, always stay on it.
wave formation
surf-and-discovery.com
BIRTH : meeting of 2 air masses, disturbance, depression
GROWTH : FETCH area, strength, duration, distance, of wind on the water surface
MATURITY : FETCH release abandoned in the ocean expanses
PROPAGATION : travel, aging
THE SURGE : culmination and end
As the swell approaches the coast, it encounters increasingly shallow waters. The water at depth slows down due to friction with the bottom, while the upper part of the swell continues to move faster.
Result: the wave straightens, becomes higher and steeper.
When the depth becomes too shallow (about 1.3 times the wave height), the water can no longer support the shape of the swell, and it breaks.
surf-and-discovery.com
Surf forecast
Santocha Beach
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